 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Suggested size is 3 to 4 boxes 1 mtr by 1.5 mtr in a
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
How to set up a small wormfarm for garden use of the wormcastings :
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
We used small blocks, on a concrete base, to raise the working height of our wormboxes, Size 9x3.5x3 In
For insulation we had pumice available, topped it up with vermiculite, a layer of insulating paper,
and cast a 2 inch concrete top, level with the tops of the blocks.
As we have a problem with frost in the wintertime, we decided to have electric heating wiring under the worms. this entailed a spacing of 6 inches of sand to embed the wiring, and arrange a means of keeping the sand moist to prevent the wiring from burning dry.
To keep the sand in place, we used two planks, one lower than the other, to create a slope for drainage of
the actual wormbeds on top.
the front was 3.5 inches high, and the back 4.5 inches, slope 1: 100 (8 cm - 12 cm )
On top of the sand we installed galvanised, painted (two sides) sheets, the front had a play of 1/4 inch for inserting the drainpipes, to catch the leachate out of the wormbeds.
The sheets had a 1 inch ledge bent down both sides, but not between the boxes.
For improvement we suggest bending up an inch at the box sides, this will facilitate the drainage into the
drain pipes. we used a sealer, but it can give trouble, and cause leaks onto the concrete floor.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Detail of the steel rods, holding
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
We have set up 10 boxes 1 mtr deep by 1.5 mtr wide, on
both sides of a covered shed, 22 mtrs long by 3 mtrs wide.
The roofing is high enough for most people to walk under
freely without bumping heads. Electricity is available.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Overview of the boxes,
Galvanised sheets,
sand underground
and wiring plus water-
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The whole assembly is held together with rods of 1/4 inch steel, bent over at one end,
(the outside of the shed) while we have a threaded end sticking out through the holes in the planks with a washer and a nut, to tension the divisions between the long planks.
As we inadvertently had the rods made too long, we made extra washers of wood, (they came out of the holes in the bottom divisions !) to make up the length of the thread.
This system enables us to replace any section of the boxes if necessary with little trouble,
as we can disassemble the lot without a crowbar and clawhammer.
We had a bit of trouble sliding the drainpipe over the sheets of galvanised iron, but with a bit of patience it went very well.
The total length of the drains is a bit long, so we have to clean out the mud regularly.
with the hose. Worms love to get into the drain too, but they generally go back into the
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The drainage fitted, note the ends of the
tension rods.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Painting the galvanised sheets, undercoat and black final coat.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
To prevent our overalls being snagged by the ends of the tension rods and to prevent damage to the drainpipes, we installed plywood panels hanging over the edge of the boxes.
We left a passageway between the rows of boxes to facilitate the use of a wheelbarrow, to shift feed and collect wormcastings when ready to harvest.
Our beds are covered with quarter inch foamrubber covers, on top we have a wooly matting to keep the top of the beds from getting too cold (hot) in the weather.
It keeps the bed reasonably moist, so we do not have to water as regularly as some wormfarmers have to do.
The foam rubber has a good airflow through it preventing "souring" of the wormbed .
We tried polythene sheeting, but found it too wet and the air could not reach the top of the wormbed.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Exploded view of the boxes ( set of 4 )
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Schematic set up of drainage ( leachate )
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
200 x 30 mm timber 1 M long ( 12 to
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Explanation :
These drawings are a plan for a small wormfarming unit, for a large family or a small restaurant.
The dimensions are about right for producing wormcastings from the kitchenscraps of a family of up to 10
reinforced with say grass clippings from the family section, and some straw etc.
The four units are back to back. The working area being 1 M deep, in each box is just right when you use a small rake, to move the food around, and for the harvesting of the wormcastings.
You can with this plan, alternate the harvesting every two months, once the worms are working well, the whole
process will then be a continuous flow of harvesting wormcastings and disposing of the kitchen scraps.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
200 x 30 mm timber 3 M long ( 6 to
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The bottom long pieces to be cut so (3 to
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|